Carloforte, a town on Sardinia’s southwestern coast, preserves an ancient tradition of tuna fishing that predates modern industrial methods. This practice respects the natural rhythms of the sea. Francesco Mattana’s debut cookbook, Eat Like A Sardinian, highlights this heritage through a straightforward recipe for tuna and tomato. The dish combines basic pantry staples with fresh ingredients, creating a meal that feels effortless but requires careful timing.
The recipe relies on a few core components. You need extra virgin olive oil, anchovy fillets, and two tuna steaks, typically around 120 grams each. The sauce includes a banana shallot, garlic, and half a red chilli. The liquid base consists of 300 grams of halved baby plum tomatoes and 100 milliliters of Vermentino wine. The finishing touches are chopped parsley and ten pitted Taggiasca olives.
Begin by heating half the oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the chopped anchovies and cook for one minute until they dissolve into the oil. Place the tuna steaks in the pan and cook for one minute on each side. Remove the fish immediately and set it aside on a plate.
Add the remaining oil to the pan along with the shallot, garlic, and chilli. Stir constantly for three minutes. Then, add the halved tomatoes and the wine. Cover the pan and let it simmer for ten minutes.
The Final Touch
Halfway through the simmer, use a fork to pierce half the tomatoes. This action helps them release their juices into the sauce, thickening the mixture. Once the tomatoes have softened, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped parsley and olives.
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Return the tuna steaks to the pan. Cover the dish again and cook for just one more minute. The goal is to warm the fish through while keeping the center pink. Serve the tuna immediately, garnished with a sprig of parsley. Because tuna steaks can dry out if left to sit, this dish is best enjoyed right after it comes off the heat.
For those who prefer not to use wine, the instructions suggest substituting water and adding the juice from a quarter lemon just before serving.
Francesco Mattana emphasizes that the secret to this method lies in timing. The fish must be removed from the heat source while it is still raw in the center. This technique ensures a juicy texture. The sauce benefits from the prolonged cooking of the tomatoes, allowing their sugars to concentrate and deepen the flavor profile.
After the tuna is returned to the pan, the heat is reduced to a bare minimum. A short rest of only one minute allows the residual heat to finish cooking the steaks without over-drying them. This final step is critical for the success of the meal. Sardinians often serve this meal with crusty bread to soak up the rich, tomato-based juices.
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